Nougat, nougat, nougat
The other day Neuhaus asked me to design a chocolate for them. I know that some look down on pralines, for not being pure, unadulterated chocolate. They are definitely sometimes let down by cheap imitations but nevertheless the combination of nuts and sugar with cocao butter works. For me, sugar, chocolate and nuts are kind of addictive, whether it is Whole Nut, Ferrero Rocher, hazelnut Cote D’Or, salty, caramelised nibs of nuts coated in dark chocolate or those giandujas they sell in Turin that I love so much.
I was at first terrified by the idea of designing a chocolate for such a well established company but it was not long before I started getting excited. What would I want to see if I were to visit a Neuhaus shop. I wrote off pralines at once; they already make them in spades and I would hate to teach granny to suck eggs. But whenever I visit Spain my head is always turned by those rectangular packets of turrones and nougats, wrapped up so beautifully on those lovely marble countered shops. Hard nougat, is almost as delicious as hard toffee. You have to break into it first, a proper crunch of your teeth against hard sugar which gives way to a chewy, sweet, nutty oblivion. The sugar hits the bloodstream, the toasted flavour of buttery nuts coat the taste buds and all is well in the world.
So here is a recipe that has emerged from my slightly delirious contemplations of sugar fixes. A hard-ish nougat, studded with golden toasted hazlenuts and almonds, infused with orange zest and dried chilli (of course I had to go Mexican), enrobed in deep, dark chocolate. It is up to you to judge the results, but I promise you that making this recipe is pleasure itself. When I set to cooking the nougat I was lifted miraculously right out of a spell of January blues and felt as happy, truly happy, as a sandboy.
First gather the ingredients in your home. I find it is helpful to do this at least a few days before I want to start to cook so that when I am making nougat, the day is untainted by humdrum trips to the shops and is as luxurious as a spa retreat. Spend the days before day-dreaming about the type of nougat you want to create and once you have all the ingredients, choose an evening free of chores. You could even invite a friend or offspring to join in the fun. Either that or turn up the music (or radio) and let yourself get lost in the pure pleasure of creating toute seule.
Cooking time: 1 hour plus overnight setting plus 1 hour if you want chocolate-coated nougat.
400 g caster sugar
60 g glucose syrup
140 ml water
250g honey
2 egg whites
1 tablespoon caster sugar
225g whole almonds, lightly toasted
225g hazlenuts, lightly toasted
Zest of an orange
2 chile de arbol, finely chopped
rice paper
560g Very good quality dark chocolate, at least 70% solids, Amadei is a great brand
50g butter
Toast the nuts in two separate pans in a medium oven (about 150C) for about 10 minutes or until a light golden brown. Also oil and line a baking tin with the rice paper.
Heat the caster sugar, glucose syrup, orange zest, chillies and water to soft crack 280°. Warm the honey separately just to the boil and then add to the syrup and bring up to 310°. Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites with one tablespoon of sugar in a stand mixer until stiff peaks. Melt 60g chocolate with the butter in another pan.
Slowly pour the syrup into the whites in a stream and whisk until stiff and glossy. Tiny lumps may form, but don’t worry about this. Whisk in the melted chocolate too, to turn the nougat into ripples of white, cream and light brown.
Add the warm nuts and gently fold together. Pour the nougat into your prepared tin and smooth flat as soon as possible before the nougat has a chance to cool. Let the nougat set for at least four hours or overnight.
The next day slice the nougat into cubes, melt the chocolate over a double burner (or on an induction hob) and coat each cube in masses of rich, dark chocolate.
These make great presents! Yummy!
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