Long, slender pink forced rhubarb is now in season. The practice of 'forcing' rhubarb, or growing it in dark conditions, didn't start until the early 19th century when a Chelsea gardener made a chance discovery by leaving a chimney pot over one of his plants. He found that depriving rhubarb of light made the stems shoot upwards, searching for light, which made for a more succulent-tasting product. This forced rhubarb is infinitely more delicate than the outdoor garden variety and well worth seeking out. It lends itself to tarts, crumbles and fools and works really well alongside mackeral or pork, it's tart taste offsetting the richness of the fish or meat.
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